Russian provocations on the archipelago of Svalbard are driving up tensions at the top of the world. A Soviet-era Playboy model smiles coyly from a torn poster hanging in the men’s dormitory. Nearby, clippings from ‘90s Russian car magazines are peeling off the wall. They were stuck here more than 30 years ago by Russian coal miners, our guide Anatoliy Sergeev explains, "something on the wall to just dream about" during the long Arctic winters. Then one day the miners left, and this room became frozen in time. We’re standing in what was once a thriving Soviet mining settlement called...