“I knew two Baltimores,” Debbie Hines says over coffee one morning in Miss Shirley’s, a cafe near the vast harbour. The place is a bit of a city institution, but the original cafe is further inside: this Miss Shirley’s sprang up along with the rejuvenated waterfront. “There was Baltimore when I started growing up and Baltimore that was ravaged by crack cocaine. And what people portray Baltimore to be is from that era in the 1970s when the city was ravaged by crack cocaine, and nothing was done other than put people in jail.” Baltimore’s underbelly acquired a worldwide cult...