This year for Passover, the pop-up and farmers market staple Zeitlin’s Delicatessen will offer a brisket braised in Dr. Brown’s Black Cherry Soda. The combination seemed natural to chef and owner Sam Zeitlin, one of many “future family recipes” upon which he has based his young business. “The classic drink of the (Jewish) deli is Dr. Brown’s Soda,” Zeitlin told me. “When done right, it’s exciting. It accents the roastiness of the meat. It also kind of adds a sweet and sour type element.” But when I first told Bette Dworkin, president/owner of Kaufman’s Deli in Skokie, about the soda...